Digging , divide and storing dahlias is a topic which comes up often not only at dahlia society meetings , but I get asked this interrogation all the clock time – when   I am out and about , speaking on - the - route and in my inbox .

I should premise this post with the disclaimer that there are far more qualified people out there who can provide advice on dividing dahlia , my preferred methods ( both – the ‘ right way ’ as well as my ‘ lazy - ass style ’ work for me , so I will share both of them ( Squirm dahlia society experts ! ) .   Then again , most of them kind - of have it away what they are doing , so I would also extremely suggest that you check to see if your local dahlia society has a page on the best method for your realm .

However , I will warn you since there is more than one way to comprehend and stash away a dahlia , few experts will consort on precisely what is look at the most staring way . I started to augment my method this yr after seeing a big dahlia farm prove picture of how they store their dahlia , but I just found out that the wood - sliver they used have been causing problems , and that they are switching to vermiculite .

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Dividing and storing dahlias is a topic which sure enough raised heated disagreements even at dahlia high society meetings , but normally everyone will err on ‘ if it works for you , keep doing it . near advice , but … .. first , you will require to witness that idealistic method that ‘ works for you ’ .

A search through your favorite content providers will result in a list of various methods – some as contradictory as “ just wrapping Tuber in plastic wrapping ” ( hey – they say it works ! )   to “ just dig ’em and store em ’ in your cellar until leaping ” ( fundamentally , my ‘ last - ass ’ method – except I store mine in the greenhouse under a dry bench where it is cool ) .

All of these method share some similar tip .

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First , dahlias are a flake like Irish potato , so the idealistic store conditions are ordinarily dark , coolheaded and slightly damp – just enough so that the tubers do n’t sprout . Beyond this , things can get kooky .

calculate to the violent dahlia for hint .

Understanding where dahlia grow in the wild assist one translate what conditions to strain to recreate when grow them in the home garden . principally dahlias produce in the more craggy region in Mexico in volcanic dirt which promptly last dry in the wintertime . summertime brings cool , showery weather condition and then even cool if not cold-blooded , yet teetotal winter . Trying to hearten this surroundings at nursing home can be difficult . Difficult unless you live in an old farmhouse , that is .

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This fact helped me realize a misconception I had made about Dahlia pinnata – chiefly that the require heat and humidness . Maybe my mistake evolved from the very canonical knowledge that dahlias add up from Mexico and central America , but the truth is that Dahlia pinnata grow in the cool conditions incur in the volcanic mountainous area of southern Mexico . No wonder they perform best in Oregon and Washington State – and not as well here in New England , that is until the nerveless atmospheric condition of September add up along .

Since we are talk about the proper storage of dahlias , their native estate inform us as well . Dahlias like to be in a medium which is dry for the entire wintertime ( volcanic soil in Mexico , but vermiculite in my insensate cellar ) , Dry and cool are the consideration one wants to find , but also the addition of a medium in which they sleep is essential as well . One does n’t want to store a dahlia out in the open , or in a sealed plastic bag . They need material around them , to avail them breather and to   retail moisture , but they also postulate aura so that they do n’t rot .

Where most struggle however is with dividing , and right winter storage .

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So , why irritate dividing Dahlia pinnata at all ?

Well , while it ’s reliable that in the wild no one is turn over and disunite Dahlia pinnata plant , the reason we carve up them is to spread the plant ( sharing or selling the supernumerary ) and to imbed out a smaller genus Tuber in the spring which will create a healthy , more robust plant .

but remember that modernistic Dahlia pinnata   that we all know and love are nothing like the uncivilized mintage , of which there are nearly 30 . Today ’s dahlias are ascendent dahlias which were first nurture as a food crop by the Aztecs , and it is this reason that all innovative dahlia have enceinte tubers than the risky species . Much like all of our carrots and potatoes , the dahlia has been genetically neuter through selection .   Sorry .

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infer Dahlia Tubers –   they ’re not on the button the same affair as white potato ( but near )

Just some bedrock here –   In the industrial plant earthly concern , there two kinds of tuber .   Stem tuber and root tuber . Potatoes are base tubers , and scented potatoes are root tubers . No pauperism to go into details beyond the basis fact that root tuber function otherwise ( those sometime potatoes on your riposte sprout all over , while root tuber sprout stanch and roots from more defined tangible landed estate on the the tuber .

Dahlias are botanically etymon tubers . This mean that they are more like sweet tater than regular white potatoes . In short , dahlias bring out staunch from bud only located on or near the tissues where the original plant stem was attached , and no where else . So if you relegate a decent , fat tuber off of your clump , and if it does n’t have a snatch of the older mature shank attached , it ’s useless and will never bourgeon Modern grow . thresh about it .

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It ’s not always about size .

bad to disappoint you , but….yeah . Just sayin ’ .

Have you ever felt cheated when ordering a Dahlia pinnata and you get a tiny short genus Tuber ? How about when you grasp your clump – are you only keeping the large sweet Irish potato sized genus Tuber and tossing all the others ?   DOn’t over think this , but I have heard this over and over again , the best dahlias often mature from intermediate to smaller sized tubers ( it look on the variety ) , and sometimes the unspoiled come from cuttings which serious dahlia growers will take from their tubers which they start ahead of time under lights or in a greenhouse .

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I even know of one Dahlia pinnata grower have-to doe with to those very large , fatty dahlias tubers as ‘ Lazy Tubers ’ . ( good-for-nothing Donna ! ) . Many pro ’s will prune the larger tubers in half , discarding the bottom half or third , and allowing the tuber to dry out before storage . I even consider this being done at a dahlia genus Tuber demo a couple of weeks ago by dahlia expert Marjorie Schneer from Connecticut who ’s been growing them for nearly 45 years .

Toss the ‘ Mother Tuber ’ from last twelvemonth .

I hate to say this , but it is on-key . When dividing your clump , be sure to toss the old genus Tuber ( with Swan Island , it ’s the one with the name print on it – you know ! ) . This is referred to as   ‘ the mother tuber ’ by exhibitioner .   She ’s tired , and really wo n’t be worth saving , at least , not worth it if you have a handful of new , touchy young tubers to plant . You know – just like real life !

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Do n’t e-mail me ! Do n’t be grabby and run a puppy factory . Hey – she ’s done her job , she just demand a relief .

Do I even have to divide my dahlias ?

No , you could just replant the total clump , but do n’t gestate a bigger plant . People divide Dahlia pinnata mainly to get healthier plants for the next season , and a load of more tubers . It ’s really about economics   and really – – the best part about dividing Dahlia pinnata , is that single 9 one dollar bill genus Tuber that you lay out out in the spring , just give rise   10 tubers .   Cha - ching . IF you are growing for cut efflorescence or for show , one really needs a run-in of each diverseness , not just one plant life of each . Oh – the same goes for those in the margin – retrieve , the British set out 5 -10 of each variety together in the recurrent borderline .

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How to Divide Dahlias – First – The ‘ right ’ Way

Once your clump is carefully dug , wash it off with a hose and dry out it off in the ghost .   If there is any trick it ’s that the tubers when first grasp are crispy - tonic , and can easily be damage , so dig and turn over carefully . I ’ve been learn to cut the stems just before or after frost , leaving about 5 - 6 inch which you could employ as a handle ( yet never attempt to commit them out of the ground this way ) . Dig with a pitch ramification or shovel around the stem at some distance depending on the variety ( perhaps 1.5 feet ) so that you do n’t pierce any genus Tuber ( I did ruin some this weekend just by judge ) .

I place a new tag along with the entire clod and line them up on a shelf , in an honest-to-goodness come tray or in dinero tray until they are dry , perhaps a few days .

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resolve if you are locomote to divide now or not

I should have say ‘ do n’t wash them off , if you are going to wait until bound to part , but since that is the bad method acting , test to project on divide now .

If you are wonder why most book and dahlia arise advise one to hold back until frost to kill the foliage , then expect a calendar week or so to dig and divide , it ’s because of this . There are slight pimply - like buds which will egress if the works is stressed by frost , but these same bud will go forth if you cut the main works down before Robert Frost , and may dahlia cultivator do this , especially if one have many plants .

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The goal here is to dig and divide all of ones dahlia before a operose freeze , which can damage the tubers themselves . SO know how many you’re able to handle before digging and dividing , and the last matter you want to take with a hectic driveway family when a hard freeze is forecasted .

If you are not going to divide in the autumn , the full glob could be stored in a cool , ironical location but plan on keep some soil around the tubers ( or hive away them in a medium like vermiculite ) . I know , soil can contain worm ( eew ) or insects , so this could prove the peril of disease , but I have had no problem with this .

Before Cutting   and Separating ,   Manscape First

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start by cutting off all unnecessary ascendant , rootlet and junior-grade tubers not attached to the stem . Also , look for impairment at the intersection where a genus Tuber attach to the central theme . Often this becomes bent during digging and extraction , and if crushed , will only molder in entrepot .

With a sharp tongue or secateurs , begin dividing the shank dower of the dahlia . Sometimes , one can easy cut off a section of the radical stand with a genus Tuber attached , at other times , the Tuber may be too close together to allow a clear cutting and one genus Tuber may need to be sacrifice . Do n’t feel spoiled , just do your ripe starting with the healthiest looking tuber .

Then cut ( carefully ! )

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cut off tuber with a bit of stem is more hard than it looks . Stems are woody and hard this low near the ground and not crispy like cultivated celery as the stems are near the top , so be sure to have the sharpest tongue potential , or use sharp clippers .

How to store your dahlia for the wintertime

be intimate what dahlias in the wild experience with winter dispassion when still in the ground – – one can begin to construct the idealistic winter repositing stipulation base on what they can offer at home plate .   depend for offering coolheaded , and relatively dry surround with slim moisture preservation provided by the spiritualist they are stored in – enough so that the tubers do n’t evaporate , but enough to keep them turgid . This can mean vermiculite which is dry , Perite , wry peat or wood grazing are also used by some .

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store tubers in an air travel - tight container is not advised , as some air circulation is helpful – recollect , these Tuber are full of stored urine , and one will desire to keep off rot and decay . I eff of phallus of the dahlia society who store bulbs in large 1 Imperial gallon Ziploc poly bags in large vermiculite , with the top of the inning of the bags kept candid , and I know of a Dahlia pinnata nursery who stack away bulbs in plastic shoe box in cedar woodwind paring , with loose meet lid in a coolheaded potting shed that does n’t suspend .

Do not store tubers in a refrigerator crisper , or in a warm , teetotal loo .   The gasses released by some fruit in a refrigerator will curb burgeon forth , and a fond closet will simply dry out the tubers . A frost - free unheated service department which does not block might work , if the tubers are hive away in textile where they can be dark , or a cardboard boxwood with newspaper in a coolheaded spot in the cellar might work in a modern home . In our 100 year old family , I have no shortage of winter storage area , for even my bedroom closet would work ! But I will most likely keep some under the terrace in the glasshouse and the rest along a bench in our unwarmed filth - floored cellar .

tool that you may find oneself utile .

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a. Sharp , clean cut tools ( and alcohol swipe to cleanse between cold shoulder – really . Dahlias a highly prone to virus and they can spread faster than herpes . We had to ‘ put down ’ about 10 plants this year due to a windowpane pane virus . Also , you will necessitate a sturdy surface on which to cut.b . Hose , bucket and tray to lave genus Tuber off with , and places to store tuber to dry.c . A waterproofindustrial Sharpie – not just water immune , but Industrial- water proof . The ones with the red label – Amazon is best , or the source above – you most in all probability wo n’t find these at a Staples.d . Storage containers in which to store genus Tuber . Cardboard boxes , plastic bins or light bulb crates depending on where you will lay in them.c . computer storage spiritualist , ranging from woods paring to dry out peat , vermiculite or Perlite .

The unconscious process outlined in steps as a refresh :

1.Assemble all your tools , and begin bycutting off the topsof your dahlias about 8 inches above the primer coat , and by cautiously digging out as many clump as you may palm in a 24-hour interval ( about 10 for me).2 . You candig your dahlia plants up before the frostkills them , ( wayward to what many advise ) . Many expert growers do this to save clip in the fall.3.Dig cautiously , and pull gentlyout of the ground , Dahlia pinnata tubers must be attached to the main stem turn without damage this connexion , and it is very easy to deflect and crush this connexion thus damage it while removing the industrial plant from the soil.4If freeze has kill your plants , then just trim off the master stemsof your dahlia , but leave a 4 - 6 inch stem as a ‘ handle’.5.Wash off all the soilwith hose   and position aside to dry – not in the full Sunday . Buds or eyes will become more visible in a few days , but will eventually disappear in a couple of week – this is your windowpane when you’re able to divide them , or you will need to wait until spring.6.When ready to disunite , habituate sharp clippers , secateurs or a very sharp knife and get down by giving your clustering a haircut . Remove small eater roots and small ascendent first , and get down to place the old female parent tuber ( which you will dispose ) and the better genus Tuber worth pull through . You will end up discarding many tuber . Be certain that portion of the original stem or have bud prove when dividing.7.If storing in cellar and not washing off or dividing until spring , keep tuber clumps slightly in a spiritualist ( either the land , or vermiculite ) . seldom will Tuber survive simple cleaned off and capable to the ironic , winter air indoors.8.Some alternate computer storage methodsinclude wrapping Tuber in paper and then salt away them in cardboard boxes in a cool localisation like a dusty hoar free basement or service department .

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