Produce more fruit in less space with this centuries-old technique. Ron Wade guides us step-by-step through the first three years in the life of an espaliered apple tree.

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I will never forget my first skirmish with espalieredfruit tree . In the 1950s , it was . I was interview for the mail of assistant head nurseryman to a outstanding British blue-blooded family . During my guide tour of the exquisitely manicure gardens , we turned a box , leaving aboxwoodparterre , when forward of us was an boulevard of espaliered yield trees , ending at a grotto surmounted by a huge piece of gardenstatuary . I was but a few years out of horticultural college , so my chemical reaction to this enchanted lane of hedgelike trees was a combination of captivation and daunting thoughts of how to deal with the trees .

My template , seemingly incognizant of the horticultural thaumaturgy we were passing , continued chatting , about what I do n’t remember . I felt the trees were staring back at me menacingly , daring me to ruin years of grooming and loving care . I got the job , afterward becoming head gardener , and I believe that over the years , the espalier and I come to respect , if not have sex , each other . Little did I realize that first day that nearly 30 year afterwards I would come to America to serve as superintendent of the gardens atStratford Hall , the Virginia place of origin of Robert E. Lee , where , lo and behold , I was placed in charge of a garden bisect by avenues of wanted espaliered fruit tree .

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Espaliers , of course , have a retentive account before me . The ancient Romans raise them first , but the form was brought to perfection several hundred age ago by the French , who are creditworthy for naming the system espalier , a deriving of the Gallic word épaule , mean shoulder .

But why should we bother with espaliers today when we have all the dwarf fruit trees we require ? fundamentally , and mighty down to the nitty gritty , it ’s the challenge . This fine art form ease up gardener justification for cohere out their chests and saying , “ I did that , and I ’m glad you like it . ” There are a phone number of back - up reasons , too . Espaliers are a twelvemonth - round garden feature , and they ’re easy to maintain and harvest than received or dwarf yield trees . Even the most rambunctious of child will thrill at being asked to harvest yield from trees no tall than they .

pick out a spur - bearing varietyThe good tree diagram for the method I ’m describing is a dwarf , unbent - leader tree get laid as a “ party whip . ” A lash is a untried tree comprising a single upright growth with no branches or side shoots . party whip are normally sold as two- or three - year - old at a tiptop of 3 ft . to 4 ft . The rootstalk of these trees should be of M9 or similar overshadow stock . M11 and M26 rootstocks are also suitable .

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you’re able to train pear or sweetheart on a two - telegram trellis — though not cherries , which favor fan training — but I ’m going to limit my discussion to Malus pumila . I suggest you opt your favorite modern change , with one significant caveat : The varieties must be spur support , meaning their yield forms close to the chief offshoot , not at the tip of erect growth . ‘ Red Rome ’ , ‘ Stayman ’ , ‘ Red Delicious ’ , and ‘ Golden Delicious ’ are all goad bearers and would be my choices . Some companies extend varieties they say are self - pollinating , but for honest cropping , all apple need a second Sir Herbert Beerbohm Tree to effectuate pollination , so plant at least two .

I recommend purchasing a balled and burlapped tree diagram . I do n’t wish container - grown yield Sir Herbert Beerbohm Tree because they may be pot resile , which admonish the tree from forming roots in its new surround . Bare - root trees are all right , but with them , a slight drying out can be fatal .

establish a single - prow tree

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you may plant apple Sir Herbert Beerbohm Tree in either the evenfall or the spring — here in Virginia , mid - March is ideal — so long as you do not institute them when the ground is frozen or waterlogged . You will no doubt require to demonstrate a row of espaliers , but for the interest of simplicity , I ’ll describe how to go on with one tree . First you ’ll need to pick out an open site . you’re able to run a 10 - ft . trellis east to west , northerly to south , or any which direction , but avoid specter and ill run out grunge .

grind a hole midway between the trellis Charles William Post ; you want the tree diagram to extend 5 ft . in either counseling . The trap need to be about 4 in . to 6 in . deeper than the origin testicle . I suggest you direct a stick across the yap to find out the surrounding ground point . Be indisputable stain take away from the hole is returned “ as is . ” amalgamate in additive such as peat moss , compost , manure , or fertilizer will discourage the tree roots from expanding to search for solid food and anchorage ground .

Replace a trivial broken up soil in the hole , then lower the tree into it , and check the deepness against the joint . The grafting uniting , a swollen area just above the top of the solution , should be 2 in . to 3 in . above ground level , as bespeak by the stick ; if it ’s not , sum up or remove land to compensate the profundity .

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Ideally , you want to set a pair of pit bud at around the same height as each of the wire . Turn the whip until these buds aim toward the office , so the lateral growth that springs from them will travel course along the wires . Now untie the gunny and push it tightly down into the hole without removing it . step by step refill the hole and firm the soil . Water the tree diagram copiously to see to it the soil comes in striking with the rootage , and then tally mulch . Year one : launch a lateral frameworkNow come the fun part , training . I use a sharp pair of anvil pruners for a dependable , uninfected snub . With incus pruners , the blade slices equally while the flavorless incus cushions the works stem . To facilitate water campaign - off and keep disease , always cut at a 45 ° angle , away from the bud . Make your first cut at the top of the whip , just above the two buds positioned beside the top wire . Then take a gentle fictile plant tie or a twist - tie beam and insure the party whip loosely to the two wire . Now it ’s a waiting game .

To create a two - tiered espalier with four horizontal branches , or laterals , you need only the two buds at the bottom wire and the two at the top telegram . All other growth should be removed . Use your thumb­nail or a tongue to rub off or issue away all growth as soon as it emerges from the bud between and below the four you mean to keep .

When the growth from the four buds you have saved is 4 in . to 6 in . long , which will be in four to six weeks , cautiously bend the laterals down to the telegram and secure them broadly speaking with ties at the center of the arches you have create .

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When the four laterals extend another 4 in . to 6 in . , about four weeks later , bring them down and tie them to the wire . As the time of year pass on , keep to tie down the sidelong branch as they grow .

Occasionally fall guy will spud below the graft conjugation or even below soil level . This growth is from the rootstock , and if allowed to develop will belike move around your tree diagram into a frame of savage cultivated crab apple . apply your anvil pruner to get rid of all such growth .

class two : prune vertical growthAt some distributor point , most potential during the tree ’s second season , the lateral will reach the posts . When they do , cut off the growing tips and continue to do so to prevent the lateral pass from getting any longer .

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As the laterals are grow horizontally , vertical growth will sprout up along their length . When the verticals are about 8 in . improbable , you necessitate to prune them back to the first two pair of leaves . After the first pruning , more emergence will radiate from the remaining bud . Roughly every six workweek , you ’ll need to prune the raw growth , again back to two span of leaves . This amount of growth is sufficient to support the tree in its innate processes of photosynthesis and the spiritual rebirth of foods into tissue .

Typically , your first pruning will take position in late April , the second in early June , and the third in mid to former July . Growth will slow down noticeably by mid - summer , so the next pruning might not be needed until September . The last pruning , really a tidying up , may number in recent November . The timing of your five or so prunings will vary agree to your climate and locality , of course , but this yield you a general theme .

As you continue pruning back to two distich of leaves , fruit bud bunch , sometimes called spurs , will organise close to the branch . Fruit buds are plump , furry , and made up of cylindric rings , all of which distinguishes them from the thinner , smooth lateral bud . Whereas a sidelong bud bring forth ramification growth , a yield bud will , as its name connote , blossom in spring and then bear fruit . You require apple , of course , so do not cut out growth write of cylindric rings . Now you see why you may not apply apple mixed bag that bear yield at the tip of lateral growing . In pruning , you would have cut off all the potential yield .

Espalier Apple Tree

Photo/Illustration: Roger Foley

class three : thin errant branchesDuring the third yr and eternally thereafter , you should prune the lateral growth back to a single pair of leaves , rather than back to two brace . As always , leave behind the yield bud alone . In year two , your tree might have produce a few apples . Now in year three , your tree should grow a full crop . Do not be tempted to remove any of the apple ; rather , leave fruit cutting to the tree itself . At about mid - summer , the tree may discard some of its fruit to keep going more fully a less amount , a phenomenon known as the June fall .

By the finis of the third class , the crucial complex body part of your tree will be instal . Now comes the wintertime of its discontent . You should study the clusters of growth for any branches that are cross , and cut out the scandalise branch . Thinning will prevent the offset from damaging each other and will appropriate more spark and atmosphere to penetrate the tree . From here on , you need only carry out this thinning of growth clusters every two or three days , depending on the zip of the variety .

Espaliers of the deep and famousRobert E. Lee ’s Virginia family unit was by no means the only democracy - loving convert to the aristocratic art of espalier , in the first place used in chilly Europe to maturate fruit Sir Herbert Beerbohm Tree on the sunny side of a garden wall . George Washington had cordon espalier fences of the character found at Stratford Hall dividing the bed in his Mt. Vernon kitchen garden , and level espaliers against the brick garden wall .

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captain of manufacture also link the horticultural show . The original duPont immigrant , an avid botanist , develop a Gallic - mode kitchen garden aggregate vegetables and blossom , its section divided by cordon orchard apple tree fencing , its bed punctuated with free - digest espaliers , and its edges display a variety of elaborate flat traffic pattern , including the beautiful Belgian fencing . In duPont ’s mother country , gardeners had been surpass each other since the time of Louis XIV developing ever - more - splendid espalier , perhaps reaching their coronate accomplishment — or low head , depending on your position — with an espalier developed by M. Lepère honoring the Emperor Napoléon .

by Ron WadeFebruary 1998from military issue # 13

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Keep the graft union exposed

Keep the graft union exposed

Keep the graft union exposed

Keep the graft union exposed

Tie down the laterals

Fruit buds vs. lateral buds

Old espaliers

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